Afternoon Tea at The Witchery | Edinburgh’s Gothic Tea Experience

Craving afternoon tea with a gothic twist? Tucked beside the gates of Edinburgh Castle at the top of the Royal Mile, The Witchery is perhaps the city’s most romantic hideaway. With its dramatic interiors, historic setting, and candlelit atmosphere, this isn’t your typical Victorian tea room—it’s something far more theatrical. But does the tea service live up to the drama?

Booking the Witchery

First things first: reservations are essential. This was my third trip to Edinburgh and the only time I managed to secure a booking. If you’re already in town, you might be too late—plan weeks, if not months, ahead. Afternoon tea here is served only on weekdays between 3 and 4pm, and note that it’s not offered in July, August, or during Christmas week. The Witchery does serve lunch and dinner year-round, so if you’re mainly after the atmosphere, you’ll have more flexibility.

A Setting Straight Out of History

The Witchery isn’t just famous—it’s legendary. Dating back to 1595, the building oozes gothic drama with its antique woodwork, dark candlelit corners, and ornate detailing. Stepping inside feels like walking into a period drama.

Tea is served in two venues:

• The Original Dining Room: opulent, dark, and lined with centuries of history.

• The Secret Garden Room: lighter, atmospheric, and a bit more whimsical.

I was seated in the Secret Garden Room, which had a beautiful atmosphere and felt like a secluded escape from the bustle of the Royal Mile.

The Afternoon Tea

The service is priced at £50 per person, with a choice of eight different teas (I went with Earl Grey). The menu itself disappeared almost as quickly as it was placed in my hands, but you can browse it online in advance.

The food was a classic mix of sweet and savory bites, with highlights including perfectly baked scones, a well-stacked tiered tray, and a silver teapot that matched the grandeur of the setting. Presentation is where The Witchery excels—it’s gothic theatre on a plate.

The Service

Here’s where the experience faltered. My server assured me I could try a second tea later on, but he never returned. In fact, no one checked in for over an hour. Despite plenty of staff present, it was nearly impossible to flag someone down. I had hoped to order a cocktail, but eventually gave up.

A note for visitors from North America: in the UK, you often don’t have a single assigned server. Any staff member can assist, so don’t wait for “your waiter”—flag down whoever is available.

Final Thoughts

Would I recommend afternoon tea at The Witchery? Yes—with caveats.

The setting is spectacular: gothic interiors, historic ambiance, and a sense of drama unlike anywhere else in Edinburgh. It’s perfect for a romantic date or special occasion, and the food presentation matches the luxury of the surroundings.

But the service fell short. If you know what to expect—and especially if you’re not dining solo—you may have a smoother experience. Personally, I adore a gothic tea party, so I’d go again for the atmosphere alone. Just don’t expect flawless service.

Verdict: Go for the romance, stay for the atmosphere, and bring a little patience.