Edinburgh Bookstore Guide | Exploring the City of Literature

Edinburgh isn’t just Scotland’s capital—it’s the world’s first UNESCO City of Literature, and for book lovers, it’s pure magic. This is a city where poets, playwrights, and novelists have found inspiration for centuries, where Harry Potter was dreamed up, and where you’ll find some of the most enchanting bookstores in the world.

Forget the usual souvenirs—if you really want to take home a piece of Edinburgh, you’ll find it tucked between the shelves of its bookshops. Here’s your guide to exploring the best of them.

Waterstones

Our first stop is Waterstones on Princes Street—a four-floor literary landmark and the city’s most famous chain bookstore. Think of it like the UK’s version of Barnes & Noble, but with more charm and a seriously impressive selection.

Inside, you’ll find everything from the latest bestsellers to Scottish history, poetry, and shelves dedicated to local authors. Its sweeping central staircase makes the space feel grand, but the real highlight is upstairs: a café with an unbeatable view of Edinburgh Castle across Princes Street Gardens. If you can snag a window seat early in the day, it’s the perfect place to sip coffee while watching the city skyline.

128 Princes Street, Edinburgh, EH2 4AD

Topping & Company Booksellers

Cross into New Town and you’ll discover Topping & Company, one of Edinburgh’s most beloved independent bookstores. Located on Blenheim Place, this beautifully restored building is a haven for serious readers and casual browsers alike.

The space feels straight out of a literary dream—floor-to-ceiling wooden shelves, rolling ladders to live out your Beauty and the Beast fantasies, and every table stacked with hand-picked recommendations. Upstairs, room after room invites exploration, with hallways lined in books.

They’re known for offering complimentary tea and coffee to visitors—though it’s not always obvious, so don’t be shy about asking. From signed first editions to the latest releases, Topping & Company is a must for anyone who loves the feeling of being surrounded by books.

2 Blenheim Pl, Edinburgh EH7 5JH, United Kingdom

McNaughtan’s Bookshop

Just down the street lies McNaughtan’s Bookshop, Scotland’s oldest secondhand and antiquarian bookshop. Founded in 1957, it’s a quiet treasure trove of rare and collectible volumes.

This is the kind of store where you browse slowly, letting the scent of old paper guide you through beautifully bound classics and obscure gems. Each visit feels like a new treasure hunt—I picked up a well-preserved 1885 edition of Tennyson’s Lyrical Poems. Small but storied, McNaughtan’s is a true Edinburgh institution for collectors and romantics alike.

Typewronger Books

Step next door and you’ll stumble into Typewronger Books, a quirky, character-filled shop connected to McNaughtan’s. Part bookstore, part typewriter museum, it’s a creative hub as much as a retail space.

The shelves here are stocked with carefully curated titles—indie publications, poetry, fantasy, sci-fi, and true crime—while vintage typewriters line the walls. Typewronger also hosts regular book launches, open mics, and community events. While they no longer buy, sell, or repair typewriters, they do offer hand-spooled ribbon replacements for vintage models. It’s a small space, but its energy makes it unforgettable.

4a Haddington Pl, Edinburgh EH7 4AE, United Kingdom

Armchair Books

Finally, no Edinburgh bookstore guide is complete without Armchair Books, tucked away on West Port near the Grassmarket. This is a labyrinthine secondhand shop that feels like it has grown into its crooked shelves over decades.

Inside, the aisles are narrow, the shelves mismatched, and the air thick with the scent of old paper. Every inch of wall, corner, and doorway is crammed with books. It’s not polished or Instagram-perfect, but that’s its magic—you come here for the thrill of discovery.

I walked out with four mini Temple Shakespeare plays, the kind of serendipitous finds that make secondhand bookstores irresistible. Whether you’re after Scottish history, classic literature, fantasy, or just something unexpected, Armchair Books is the perfect place to lose yourself for an hour—or three.

72-74 West Port, Edinburgh EH1 2LE, United Kingdom

Bonus Mention: The Gently Mad

Though I wasn’t able to make it this trip, The Gently Mad often comes up as another must-visit for secondhand book lovers. It was high on my list to visit but, as it's a bit outside the city center, I wasn't able to make it there. If you’re charmed by the chaos of Armchair Books, this one might be worth adding to your list.

2 Summer Pl, Edinburgh EH3 5NR, United Kingdom

Final Thoughts

Edinburgh wears its City of Literature title proudly, and nowhere is that more evident than in its bookstores. From glossy multi-floor shops with castle views to tiny, crooked labyrinths of secondhand treasures, there’s a store here for every kind of reader.

So next time you’re in the Scottish capital, skip the tartan keychains and whisky tumblers—your best souvenir might just be waiting for you on a bookshelf.